How to Repot a Monstera: The Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Let's talk about repotting your monstera. It's one of those plant care tasks that can feel a bit intimidating, right? You've got this beautiful, thriving Swiss Cheese Plant, and the thought of uprooting it (literally) sends a shiver down your spine. What if you mess it up? What if it goes into shock and all those gorgeous leaves start to droop?

I've been there. I've procrastinated on repotting until the roots were practically staging a jailbreak out of the drainage holes. I've also, in my early plant parent days, been a bit too eager and repotted a perfectly happy monstera into a mansion-sized pot, which... didn't end well. Soggy soil, sad plant. Learning how to repot a monstera properly is less about having a green thumb and more about understanding a few simple, logical steps.

This guide is everything I wish I'd known. We're going to walk through the whole process, from figuring out if and when you should even do it, to what to do in the weeks after. No fluff, just clear, actionable advice to get your plant into a new home smoothly.

The Golden Rule of Monstera Repotting: The goal is to cause as little disturbance as possible while giving the roots the space and fresh nutrients they need to continue growing. It's a refresh, not a revolution.

First Things First: Is It Even Time to Repot?

Don't just repot your monstera because it's spring or you bought a cute new pot. Repotting should be a response to the plant's needs. Here are the unmistakable signs that it's time to learn how to repot a monstera for your specific plant.

The Unmistakable Signs Your Monstera is Root Bound

Roots on the Run: This is the most obvious one. Are roots growing out of the drainage holes? Not just one sneaky one, but a whole tangle? What about roots creeping over the top of the soil? That's your plant screaming for more space.
The Fast Dry-Out: Does the soil seem to turn to dust a day or two after you water? When a plant is severely root-bound, there's more root mass than soil, so it can't hold onto moisture.
Slowed Growth: Your monstera has put out maybe one small, sad leaf in the last six months, even during the growing season. It's hit the limits of its current pot.
The Pot Bulge: Gently squeeze a plastic pot. Does it feel rigid, like the roots are pushing against the sides? For ceramic pots, you might even see the pot starting to crack or distort.
Watering Becomes a Puzzle: When you water, it either instantly drains out the bottom (running between the root ball and pot wall) or pools on top, refusing to soak in.

If you're seeing two or more of these signs, it's go time. If not, maybe just give the leaves a wipe and enjoy it for another season.

Gearing Up: What You'll Need Before You Start

Getting everything ready before you touch the plant is 80% of the battle. There's nothing worse than having your monstera out of its pot, roots exposed, while you're frantically searching for the perlite.

The Perfect Pot: Size and Material Matter

Choosing a new pot is critical. The biggest mistake is going too big. A pot that's too large holds excess soil that stays wet for too long, leading to root rot—the number one killer of houseplants.

Size: Only go up 1-2 inches (2-5 cm) in diameter from the current pot. If your monstera is in a 10-inch pot, choose a 12-inch one. That's it. It feels small, but it's perfect.
Material:
- Terracotta/Ceramic (Unglazed): My personal favorite for monsteras. They're porous, which allows air to reach the roots and helps soil dry more evenly. Great if you tend to over-love with water.
- Plastic: Lightweight and retains moisture longer. Fine if you're a cautious waterer or your home is very dry. Just make sure it has excellent drainage holes.
- Glazed Ceramic/Metal/Cachepots: These often lack drainage holes. You can use them as a decorative outer pot, but always plant your monstera in a functional, draining nursery pot that sits inside. Never plant directly into a pot without drainage.

Crafting the Ideal Monstera Soil Mix

This is where you can make a huge difference. Monsteras are epiphytes in the wild, meaning they grow on trees, not in dense ground soil. Their roots need chunky, airy, and well-draining medium. Standard bagged potting soil is often too dense and retains too much water.

You have two options:

Option 1: The Premium Pre-Mix. Look for a high-quality aroid mix or orchid potting mix. These are specifically formulated for plants like monsteras and philodendrons.

Option 2: The DIY Blend (My Preferred Method). It's easier than it sounds and lets you control the texture. A simple, effective recipe is:

Basic Monstera Potting Mix:

2 parts All-Purpose Potting Soil (a good quality one)
1 part Orchid Bark (for chunkiness and aeration)
1 part Perlite or Pumice (for drainage and preventing compaction)
A handful of Horticultural Charcoal (optional, but great for filtering impurities and keeping soil sweet)

Mix it all together in a large tub before you start. You'll have enough for your repot and maybe a few other plants.

For those wanting to dive deeper into the science of potting media, the University of Maryland Extension has a fantastic resource on the properties of different potting mix components that explains why aeration is so crucial.

The Tool Kit

New Pot (1-2" larger, with drainage)
Fresh Potting Mix (as described above)
Sharp, Clean Scissors or Pruners (for any root work)
Gardening Gloves (optional, but soil can be messy)
Newspaper or a Tarp (to contain the mess)
A chopstick or skewer (incredibly useful for gently loosening roots and poking soil into gaps)

The Main Event: Step-by-Step How to Repot Your Monstera

Alright, you've picked the perfect day (a warm, cloudy one is ideal), gathered your supplies, and your plant is thirsty (water it 1-2 days before repotting so it's hydrated but not soggy). Let's do this.

Step 1: The Gentle Exit

Lay the pot on its side. Gently squeeze or tap the sides of a plastic pot to loosen the root ball. For a rigid pot, you can run a knife around the inside edge. Tilt the pot and slowly, carefully, coax the plant out by the base of the stems—never by the stems or leaves alone. If it's really stuck, you might need to sacrifice the old pot and cut it away. It happens.

Step 2: The Root Inspection & TLC

Now, take a good look at the root ball. Gently loosen the outer roots with your fingers. You're not trying to tear it apart, just encourage them to grow outward into the new soil instead of continuing in a tight circle.

What are you looking for?

Healthy Roots: Firm and white or light tan.
Unhealthy Roots: Brown, black, mushy, or slimy. They might smell bad. These are rotten and need to go. Snip them off with your clean scissors.
Circling Roots: Thick roots that are wrapped tightly around the root ball. You can make a few vertical cuts with your scissors or gently untangle them to redirect growth.

Don't go overboard. Removing up to about 1/3 of the root mass is safe if necessary, but often just a light loosening is enough. The process of how to repot a monstera involves being a surgeon, not a butcher.

Step 3: Prepping the New Home

Place a piece of broken pottery, a mesh screen, or a coffee filter over the drainage hole to keep soil from washing out. Add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom of the new pot. The goal is to set the plant in so the top of its root ball sits about an inch below the rim of the new pot. This gives you space for watering.

Step 4: Setting & Filling

Place your monstera in the center. It should sit at the same depth it was in the old pot—don't bury the stems deeper. Holding it steady with one hand, use your other hand or a cup to add new soil all around the sides.

Here's a pro tip: Use your chopstick to gently poke the soil down into the gaps between the root ball and the pot wall. This eliminates large air pockets that can dry out roots. Don't pack the soil down hard; just firm it gently.

Step 5: The First Watering

This is a crucial step. Water thoroughly until water runs freely out of the drainage holes. This serves to settle the soil around the roots. You might need to add a bit more soil after this first watering if it settles too much.

Personal Note: The first time I repotted a large monstera, I was so nervous about overwatering that I barely gave it a sip. The dry pockets of soil left the roots stressed and the plant drooped for days. A thorough, deep watering right after repotting is almost always the right move, as long as your pot drains.

The Aftercare: What to Expect (And What to Do)

You've successfully navigated how to repot a monstera. Now, the plant needs a little time to settle in. Don't expect a party right away.

Location: Put it back in its original spot with the same light conditions. Avoid moving it to a brighter spot right now—that's additional stress.
The Droop: Some slight wilting or drooping in the first week is normal. The roots are adjusting. Just maintain consistent care.
Hold the Fertilizer: Fresh potting mix has nutrients. Do not fertilize for at least 4-6 weeks after repotting. You can easily burn the new roots.
Watering Schedule: Your old schedule is out the window. The new soil and pot size change things. Check moisture by sticking your finger about 2 inches into the soil. Water only when it feels dry at that depth. This might be less frequent than you think.

After a few weeks, you should see new growth—a sure sign your plant is happy and has taken to its new home.

Troubleshooting: Common Post-Repotting Problems

Even when you follow every step on how to repot a monstera, things can get weird. Here's a quick decoder.

Problem	Likely Cause	What to Do
Severe, prolonged drooping (over 10 days)	Root damage during repotting, or the new soil/pot is holding too much moisture (root rot onset).	Check soil moisture. If it's sopping wet, consider repotting again into a drier, airier mix. If dry, be patient and ensure good humidity.
Yellowing leaves, especially lower ones	Natural shock, or overwatering in the new, larger pot.	Let the plant drop a leaf or two if it's just shock. If multiple leaves yellow, reassess your watering frequency.
No new growth for months	Pot might still be too large, plant is focusing energy on root growth, or it needs more light.	Ensure it's getting enough indirect light. Be patient—growing a massive new root system takes time before you see new leaves.

Your Monstera Repotting Questions, Answered

I get a lot of the same questions from friends. Let's tackle a few final head-scratchers.

Should I add a moss pole when I repot?

Absolutely, yes. If your monstera is getting sizeable, repotting is the perfect time to add a support. Bury the base of a moss pole or coir totem deep in the pot, right up against the main stem(s). Then, use soft plant ties to gently secure the stems to the pole. This encourages the growth of larger, more fenestrated leaves as it climbs. For more on the benefits of providing support for climbing aroids, resources from institutions like the University of Florida's Gardening Solutions offer great insights.

Can I divide my monstera when repotting?

You can, if it has multiple, distinct stems coming from the soil. During the root inspection stage, you can gently tease apart the root ball into separate plants, making sure each division has its own roots and stems. Pot them up individually. It's a great way to get more plants or share with friends.

What's the best time of year to repot?

Early to mid-spring is ideal. The plant is entering its active growing season and will recover fastest. Summer is okay too. Try to avoid late fall and winter unless it's an emergency (like severe root rot). A dormant plant struggles to recover from the stress.

So there you have it. A complete, no-nonsense walkthrough on how to repot a monstera. It's not about perfection. It's about giving your plant a comfortable, healthy foundation for its next stage of growth. Take your time, be gentle, and trust the process. Your monstera will thank you with a burst of new, beautiful leaves.

Now go on, give that root-bound friend a new home.